Vade retro, modernitas!

Some dining establishments seem to have an uncanny ability to withstand the passing of time and resist any attempt at modernisation. Save for the occasional addition of a seasonal dish, the menu never changes, the plating is stuck at a pre-80s bistro era, when the addition of a decorative salad leaf on your starter plate was the height of sophistication, and the barely polite waiters, as stiff as their starched shirt collars, dance around the room in a swiftly coordinated ballet. The decor probably hasn't changed much since the place was first open, and walking into the dining room feels like being sucked into a time warp. What lies in wait behind these heavy, brass-plated wooden doors, for the happy few who have a membership or connections, is not just fabulously classic and consistently delicious food, but a proper dining experience.

Being a creature of habits, I have always had a particular fondness for such restaurants. They are reliably un-surprising, always keep you in the comfort zone, and ultimately feel like the cozy warm hug of a 4-strand cashmere jumper on a cold winter day. So here I was, once again, making my way to Cipriani (12/F, Old Bank of China Tower, Central, HK) for a white truffle fix de rigueur in this season, courtesy of a friend with no membership but connections who arranged the booking.





The bread basket

There are many fancier versions around town, but Cipriani arguably has the best gressini. The fluffy, buttery conical bread rolls must be gobbled instantly, as they are brought warm to your table. As I do with my croissants, I can never resist peeling the layers off one by one...



Starter: steak tartare

I have been to Cipriani many times over (thanks mostly to business lunch invitations) and I never seem to be able to order any other starter than tuna tartare, beef carpaccio or steak tartare. This version, despite being minced and not hand-chopped with a knife, still retains a pleasant texture thanks to the coarse grounding and the use of a relatively fattier cut of beef than normal, and benefits from a nice chilli kick, although it is relatively light on other condiments (no onions, shallots or mustard, just a touch of black pepper and a drizzle of excellent olive oil), which lets you fully appreciate the taste of the meat. As all tartares/carpaccios, it came with some tiny toasts on the side (crust off, of course) and a dollop of excellent mayonnaise. Terribly old-fashioned and just lovely.

Main: Risotto alla Parmigiana, with shaved white truffles

As usual the risotto was perfect, creamy and full of parmesan cheese aroma. The white truffles were just heavenly - the first whiff of the season is always the most satisfying, after a whole year of surviving on placebos such as truffle oil...

Vanilla cream cake

Cipriani's best cake in my (and a lot of people's) opinion. Come dessert time and 3 or more waiters will flock to your table, each holding one of the freshly made delicacies of the day. Lemon tart, coffee cream cake, fresh berry tart... there is no wrong choice, but the heavenly fluffiness of the vanilla cream cake is a cut above the rest. Thin layers of light genoise biscuit, sandwiched between much thicker layers of vanilla whipped cream, and topped with Italian meringue. Simple and superb.