Thursday, June 17, 2010

High on 'shrooms

I returned to Caprice to bid farewell to a colleague (and fellow foodie) who was relocating back home to Singapore. We got a very nice window-side table (perfect light for shooting), the service was on its usual ultra-attentive-but-not-intrusive mode and the food was divine. In return for me treating her, my guest promised death by food next time I'm in Singapore, which I am very much looking forward to :-)

Awesome olive oil - tastes very "green" just as I like it... I am told by the Elfette in the kitchen this is an AOC oil from France (Château d'Estoublon) praised by chefs the world over...


The beurre Bordier doux and the beurre Bordier au sel de Guérande. Little humps of fatty goodness :-)


I make a point of absolutely NEVER drinking over lunch, especially with colleagues (quelle horreur!)


 
Amuse-bouche: Alaskan crab with shellfish consommé and poached vegetables (baby pak-choi, fennel, green asparagus, baby carrot) - the crab was incredibly sweet and the consommé totally delish. Very elaborate for an AB. A little bird told me Elfette may have contributed to this one...




Off-menu starter (a little Elfette whispered to my ear...): baby girolles & morels in creamy sauce with fatty pork and poached egg. Oooooh the happiness :-)
In this pic: pan-fried fatty pork, poached-to-perfection onsen-style egg, what on earth was that little green thing ??, morels, baby girolles


Look at that yolk! After investigation, the "little green thing" on top turned out to be cordifolle (aka
ficoïde glaçiale). The appearance of the leaves was very much like that of succulent plants and they were thick and slightly crunchy, and popped in the mouth with a salty/juicy feel. Very interesting texture.




My guest's main course: Racan Pigeon en Croûte with Nori Seaweed, Foie Gras, Broad Bean and Artichoke Fricassee. I had this the previous time I came and it was gorgeous (guest confirmed). The jus is divine (literally plate-lickin' good... almost, I pity the other clients who have to watch me eat). The pigeon rests on a bed of blanched (or sous-vide ?) broad beans (peeled, obviously...). The rare sous-vide breast is topped with a very generous slab of excellent goose foie gras then wrapped in nori seaweed and further wrapped in sesame puff pastry. The combination of flavours just works to perfection. The first time I tried foie gras with nori was actually a few years ago at San San Trois (Chinese / Japanese / French fusion restaurant in the Citic Tower, Admiralty) in the form of a warm piece of foie gras sushi which I found absolutely delicious. Seaweed works better with foie gras than truffle I find - because it actually enhances it without overpowering it as truffle does. 






The pigeon, "vu de dos". Note the baby artichokes (gorgeous), adding a welcome touch of bitterness to cut the fattiness of the dish. Note also the tiny cute pigeon leg rsting on top of the breast, which my fellow foodie and I refer to as "Gisele Bundchen-like". This dish is just brilliant. Period.


 
My main course: line-Caught Sea Bass with Morel Mushrooms and Gnocchi in Morteau Sausage Sauce. The fish was cooked to perfection, rested on a very thick bed of morels, and the gnocchi were fondant and lightly coated in a delicious cream sauce. The jus was infused with the delicate meaty & smokey aroma of the Morteau sausage, and the combination with the mushrooms and the fish worked to perfection. What an awesome dish!



Cheese, Gromit!!
Should have asked Jérémy to write the names down for me :-(
The 4-year comté was at its usual best. The bleu des Causses was very intense and I enjoyed it a LOT (huuuge fan of blue cheeses...). The first 2 were goat's milk cheeses (one very mild, creamy and with a distinct woody aroma of "garrigue", the other more ripe), very good as well. The one in the middle was a stronger and more flavourful version of a reblochon made with goat's milk which I found very good and interesting. As you may have guessed by now, there will AGAIN be no room for dessert this time...


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